On Leeks

Did you know that the leek is the national emblem of Wales?

It's true! According to legend, Welsh soldiers were ordered to wear leeks on their helmets to differentiate themselves from the enemy. And everybody knows that nothing says "fearsome" like a phalanx of charging warriors bedecked in vegetables.

But what to do with the leeks after you've defeated the Saxon hordes? I suggest this little recipe, veganized from the Jan 2010 issue of Food&Wine. Serve it up with a few roasted red peppers, some steamed asparagus, and a chilled glass of Franciscan Estates Chardonnay, and you've got a meal fit for fete-ing a victorious army. Or feeding the Doc, Roomie & Uncle Ex-Pat (who's home from Prague for the holidays) on a peaceful Wednesday night in December. It's a versatile meal.

Battle-Ready Cavatappi with Creamy Leeks & Spinach

1 pound cavatappi (or any kind of curly pasta; rotini, fusilli, gemelli, etc.)
1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large leek, white and light green parts only, sliced very thin
2/3 - 3/4 cup of plain soy yogurt (see note below)
1/3 - 1/4 cup rice or soy milk (see note below)
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg (see note below)
4 cups densely packed baby spinach, coarsely chopped
1/2 cup lightly packed basil leaves, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/8 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper

Note: The original recipe calls for a cup of heavy cream, a decidedly un-vegan ingredient. I had some plain soy yogurt left over from Blustery Day Celery Soup so I decided to experiment. I put the yogurt in a 1-cup glass measuring dish and then added the milk until it looked like heavy cream and I had a full cup. The nutmeg I added because I find that it cuts the sort of sweet taste of vegan dairy products (especially yogurt and rice milks). Feel free to use the creamy liquid of your choice.

In a large pot, cook the pasta according to the package for al dente. Drain and set aside.
In a big casserole dish/dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat.
Add the leek and cook until soft.
Add the yogurt mixture and simmer until slightly thickened.
Add the spinach and cook until wilted but still bright green.
Add the cooked pasta and toss over medium heat until coated with the sauce. Add the salt and pepper and toss.
Remove from heat, add the basil, toss again, and serve.